On route to Ichetucknee Springs
more updates coming as we figure out this tumblr thing
The Southern Endeavor
Our ride out of Ocean Springs was one of the most scenic and successful as we rode tailwinds along the white beaches from Biloxi, MS to Gulfport, MS. Upon crossing into Louisiana, we discovered the presence (and dangers) of wild bore and gators, but we managed to keep our attention on the beautiful bayou waters and waterfowl that surrounded us. The Bayou Sauvage and Pearl River Wildlife Preserves provided glimpses of bald eagles, osprey, cranes, egrets and dozens of blue herons!
We found it pretty difficult to find camping (reasonable camping) along the desolate stretch of Route 90 to The Big Easy. As dusk fell and finding an appropriate shelter for the night became a top priority, we were approached by a man who gave us cold sodas and crackers and gave some quick advice on where to camp for the night! Again, just another example of people being awesome. We pitched camp behind an old church in the middle of nowhere with a great view of the surrounding wetlands but unfortunately, the mosquitos were licking their chops when we arrived and quickly began feasting on us as soon as the sun went down! We had to take shelter in our tents to avoid becoming part of their nightly feast. This whole scenario of vigorously shaking out of tents and hiding from the skeeters was probably quite comical from afar…
Our next morning turned out to be extremely dewy, which held us back a couple minutes while we dried our gear on the rear pillars of the church. No worries though, our view over the wetlands provided one of the warmest sunrises on our tour. As Will fixed his bike with an old thrown out American flag, we paused to watch a flock (as in a lot more than you’d expect) of blue heron flying through the morning sunlight.
Just before entering downtown NOLA, we stopped at Dong Phuongs for an interesting vietnamese breakfast that was highly recommended to us by fellow cross country cyclists. When we arrived in downtown NOLA, the guest we were supposed to stay with completely blew us off and we were left stranded in Washington park, homeless yet again! We spent time scrambling for someone to stay with, but it didn’t take long thanks to the generosity of the locals. After a few requests for housing, including the friendly staff at Bamboula’s on Frenchmen street (S/O to Annie and Kat!) a dude at the bike shop, Adam, gladly hosted us for two nights and showed us a great time throughout the duration of our stay.
We explored the city for two days; Walking brews down Bourbon Street (legally), biking around City Park, and eating local cuisine (which turned out to be a Poor Boy every meal) and listening to live music everywhere we went! After experiencing our fair share of the French Quarter night life, we packed our bikes and set sail for Baton Rouge!
The trek from New Orleans to Baton Rouge turned out to be an arduous and humid 105 mile ride along the not-so-scenic levee trail which parallels the mighty Mississippi. This section between the two cities was an industrial wasteland complete with terrible smells, pollution, and the cacophony of beeping, hissing and banging from the multiple immense factories. Fun Stuff! After seeking shelter multiple times from unexpected downpours, we rode well into the night and arrived in Baton Rouge around 830 pm. Our host, Scott, works at LSU and has a condo right next to Tiger Stadium! Talk about sweet digs… He took us out for a delish meal at Chimes restaurant where we sampled blackened alligator and local brews.
The forecast for Baton Rouge is rain, rain and more rain for the next two days so we might be hanging here for a bit. Prob going to visit LSU’s tiger mascot later today!
So we are about a week behind on this but to flash forward a bit… We finally made it out of what is now my least favorite state; “leeeziana”. Not only were the roads an atrocity, but the scenery was slightly disappointing and not a gator in sight! Come on Louisiana!The never ending mine field of potholes and divots eventually took their toll on our bikes, giving Matt a rear flat and breaking not one, but two of my rear spokes! Luckily we were able to temporarily repair the spokes on the side of the road with some duct tape and continued for about 50 miles with a very precarious and wobbly rear wheel. Our host in De Ridder, LA SAVED THE DAY and drove us an hour to the nearest bike shop in Lake Charles, LA. Thanks Amanda! Again, the generosity and hospitality of the people in Louisiana was above and beyond expectations which made that part of the enjoyable. Side note: good luck to our dude Alex K who is solo biking the southern tier W->E!
We entered Texas at sundown on Saturday. Texas has been great to us so far, providing scenery of the rolling hills and ranches which comprise a majority of the land out here. Apart from our beautiful evening spent in the Cagle Recreation Area of Lake Conroe, our nights have been spent either behind or inside churches. Churches have consistently been the most accommodating and welcoming places we have come across throughout the trip. We are currently sitting at the St. John’s United church of Christ in the sleepy town of Burton, TX. We arrived at 6 pm last night, knocked on the door, and were greeted by Glenn who not only welcomed us inside, but cooked us breakfast in the morning!
~100 miles until Austin where Matt and I will be taking a 3 day hiatus from cycling and chilling with the one and only Kev Kuruc! We are stoked to see Austin and a familiar face from TU. Once we have access to a computer, Matt will work his magic and show some pretty sweet shots from the first part of out adventure. 1400 miles down and many more to go. TaTa for now!
About 30 miles down the road from Marfa, Will snapped yet another spoke on his rear wheel. The freakin roads in Texas are rough! Nothing a little duct tape can’t fix… Later that night we arrived at the creepy and unwelcoming town of Van Horn, Texas, where Will finally experienced his first flat while walking his bike through a abandoned school yard. Sketchy biz. Luckily we managed to find a church to camp outside of, and without any hesitation, we rolled out early and began the trek to Guadalupe mountains up scenic route 54. The road was deserted and we took advantage of the quiet and solitude. The relaxing ride ended abruptly when we hit the intersection of route 180, and the climb up to the mountain range wrecked us! The following day we woke up sunburnt, tired, hungry and extremely sore from the crazy climb at the tail end of the ride… but instead of resting, we hiked 8.5 miles to the summit of guadalupe peak which loomed ominously about 3,000 feet above the campground. luckily our neighbors were kind enough to give us some snacks for the hike… Thanks Tim and Joan!
Tuesday’s ride to the Carlsbad Caverns consisted of a breathtaking sunrise and some solid tailwinds, allowing us to bike the 35 mile ride in about 2.5 hours. We reached White’s City (6 miles away from the Cavern entrance) around 10:30 am, and were offered a ride from the owner of the City (Thanks Joe!) After a 4 mile tour through the caverns, we finished the trek to the city of Carlsbad. The following morning we began our departure to our next destination, but only made it about 4 miles from the town before we made the decision to turn around. The 50-75 mph wind gusts were literally blowing us off of the road and made the ride impossible. The unplanned “rest day” in Carlsbad was a nice chance to finally relax and recuperate from the chaotic stretch of riding and exploring.
The following is a small collection of photos from Marfa, Texas -> Hope, New Mexico. (Matt had to hike into the Caverns with socks over his biking shoes because the clicking of the metal was extremely loud and echoed throughout the caverns). The whole socks over shoes combo could easily be a new trend.